Resources
Wafler Nursery
Planting Instructions
Upon Arrival
Inspect trees for possible drying out of roots during transit. We pack our trees carefully for shipping but if damage is detected (i.e. freezing in transit, drying out, breakage) report it to the carrier and call us at once. We may be able to offer some help. If there is frost in the box, close it up again and place it in a cool area where it can warm up very slowly.
Storage
For best results, the trees should be planted as soon as possible after receiving. If you have to store them, keep them in a cool or cold (but not freezing) place. Do not store the trees with apples or in any storage that has not been fully aired out to remove ethylene gasses. All Tree warranties are void if stored near ethylene gases. Inspect them regularly. The roots should be kept moist but not wet and the tops dry. Don’t store where mice can get at them.
If The Buds Have Started Growing
If buds are just swelling or stretching, plant them out within 1 to 2 days in their final location if possible. If you have 1/2” of growth or more, heel the trees (temporarily plant) them in on the north side of a building or another place where sun will not hit them directly. Shelter them from wind also. You want the yellowish growth to turn green (2-4 days normally). Plant as soon as they have been acclimated to the light. Take extra care that the roots remain moist all the time.
Planting
For a few trees, holes may be dug with a shovel. For a larger number of trees, a tractor powered auger or tree planter is used. Dig the hole large enough so that the roots can be spread out and deep enough so that the tree can be planted leaving the bud union (the knobby part of the trunk above the roots) out of the ground 3-4” (see diagram). Do not dig holes far in advance of planting and do not plant if water seeps into the bottom of the hole before you get the tree in it–
It is too wet at this point.
Do not put anything in the hole except the tree, good soil, and water. Fertilizer or manure will burn fragile young roots. Setting the tree upright in the hole, fill it about half full with dirt. Tamp the dirt firmly but gently. Fill the hole with soil all the way and tamp. Trees benefit greatly from a good watering as soon as planted. In a normal season, two good waterings are usually enough. If the first growing season is dry, more will be needed. At planting cut an unbranched tree back to 30-36” above the ground to encourage branching. If the tree is well branched, leave it as it is.
Care During the First Years
Fruit trees are susceptible to diseases and insects. They will grow better if sprayed. Garden centers or farm supply store often sell all-purpose sprays that a home orchardist can use. Weeds need to be controlled around the base of the trees to improve tree growth. Trees can be severely damaged by rodents, rabbits, and deer. Contact your local extension office for information for both commercial growers and hobbyists.
Pollination Guidelines
Generally, when planning your orchard, you want to put varieties together that bloom at the same time. For example, Early Bloom Varieties with other Early Bloom varieties. The flowers are open at the same time and allow bees to cross pollinate to produce fruit. Another option is to add in crab apple pollinizers to your orchard to pollinate the varieties.
Early Bloom Variety Examples
(Some not all) Empire, Braeburn, Idared, Dandee Red, Liberty, Lodi
Mid-Season Bloom Variety Examples:
(Some not all) Cortland, Zestar!, Gala, Granny Smith, Crispin
Mid to Late Bloom Variety Examples:
Golden Delicious, Rosalee, Summerset, Evercrisp, Sweet Zinger, Ludacrisp, Fuji
Late Bloom Variety Examples:
(Some not all): Honeycrisp, Roseland Red Honeycrisp, Royal Red Honeycrisp, Goldrush, Rome, Northern Spy, Jonastar Jonagold
Do Not Use as a Pollen Source:
Jonastar Jonagold and Crispin
MAIA Membership Information
For more information concerning Midwest Apple Improvement Association (MAIA) membership, please visit http://MAIAapples.com
Tree Planting Guide
CLASSIFIED AS |
ROOT-STOCK |
HEIGHT OF MATURE TREE |
STAKING |
SOIL TYPE |
SPACING FOR FARMERS |
TREES PER ACRE |
SPACING FOR HOMEOWNERS |
FIREBLIGHT RESISTANT |
Dwarf |
B9 |
10-12 ft. |
Permanent |
All |
3X12 |
1210 |
5X18 |
Yes |
Dwarf |
G.11 |
10-12 ft. |
Permanent |
All |
3X12 |
1210 |
5X18 |
Somewhat |
Dwarf |
9/337 |
10-12 ft. |
Permanent |
All |
3X12 |
1210 |
5X18 |
No |
Dwarf |
G.41 |
10-12 ft. |
Permanent |
All |
3X12 |
1210 |
5X18 |
Yes |
Dwarf |
B10® |
11-13 ft. |
Permanent |
All |
4X14 to 3X12 |
1210 |
6X18 |
Yes |
Dwarf |
NIC 29 |
11-13 ft. |
Permanent |
All |
4X14 to 3X12 |
1210 |
6X18 |
No |
Semi-Dwarf |
G.935 |
12-14 ft. |
Permanent |
All |
5X15 |
580 |
8X18 |
Yes |
Semi-Dwarf |
M26 |
12-14 ft. |
Permanent |
Dry or Gravel |
5X15 |
580 |
8X18 |
No |
Semi-Dwarf |
G.969 |
13-15 ft. |
Permanent |
All |
6X16 |
454 |
10X20 |
Yes |
Semi-Dwarf |
G.30 |
13-15 ft. |
Permanent |
All |
6X16 |
454 |
10X20 |
Yes |
Semi-Dwarf |
M7 |
14-16 ft. |
No Stake |
Deep Tap Root |
8X18 |
302 |
12X25 |
No |
Standard |
MM111 |
16-18 ft. |
No Stake |
All |
10X20 |
218 |
15X30 |
No |
Standard |
B118 |
16-18 ft. |
No Stake |
All |
10X20 |
218 |
15X30 |
Somewhat |
Pears |
OHXF87 |
13-15 ft. |
No Stake |
All |
6X16 |
454 |
12X24 |
No |
Pears |
OHXF97 |
16-18 ft. |
No Stake |
All |
10X20 |
218 |
15X30 |
No |
Peach/ Nectarine |
Krymsk® 86 |
14-16 ft. |
No Stake |
All |
Open Center: 14X20 Perpendicular “V”: 6X20 |
363/155 |
15X30 |
N/A |
Cherry |
Gisela 6 |
14-16 ft. |
Suggested |
All |
6X16 |
454 |
12X25 |
N/A |
Cherry |
Mazzard |
16-18 ft. |
No Stake |
All |
15X20 |
145 |
15X30 |
N/A |
Plum |
Myrobalan 29C |
16-18 ft. |
No Stake |
All |
12X20 |
181 |
15X30 |
N/A |