Resources

Wafler Nursery

Planting Instructions

Upon Arrival

Inspect trees for possible drying out of roots during transit. We pack our trees carefully for shipping but if damage is detected (i.e. freezing in transit, drying out, breakage) report it to the carrier and call us at once.  We may be able to offer some help. If there is frost in the box, close it up again and place it in a cool area where it can warm up very slowly. 

Storage

For best results, the trees should be planted as soon as possible after receiving. If you have to store them, keep them in a cool or cold (but not freezing) place. Do not store the trees with apples or in any storage that has not been fully aired out to remove ethylene gasses. All Tree warranties are void if stored near ethylene gases. Inspect them regularly. The roots should be kept moist but not wet and the tops dry. Don’t store where mice can get at them. 

If The Buds Have Started Growing

If buds are just swelling or stretching, plant them out within 1 to 2 days in their final location if possible. If you have 1/2” of growth or more, heel the trees (temporarily plant) them in on the north side of a building or another place where sun will not hit them directly. Shelter them from wind also. You want the yellowish growth to turn green (2-4 days normally). Plant as soon as they have been acclimated to the light. Take extra care that the roots remain moist all the time. 

Planting

For a few trees, holes may be dug with a shovel. For a larger number of trees, a tractor powered auger or tree planter is used. Dig the hole large enough so that the roots can be spread out and deep enough so that the tree can be planted leaving the bud union (the knobby part of the trunk above the roots) out of the ground 3-4” (see diagram). Do not dig holes far in advance of planting and do not plant if water seeps into the bottom of the hole before you get the tree in it–
It is too wet at this point. 

Do not put anything in the hole except the tree, good soil, and water. Fertilizer or manure will burn fragile young roots. Setting the tree upright in the hole, fill it about half full with dirt. Tamp the dirt firmly but gently. Fill the hole with soil all the way and tamp. Trees benefit greatly from a good watering as soon as planted. In a normal season, two good waterings are usually enough. If the first growing season is dry, more will be needed. At planting cut an unbranched tree back to 30-36” above the ground to encourage branching. If the tree is well branched, leave it as it is. 

Care During the First Years

Fruit trees are susceptible to diseases and insects. They will grow better if sprayed. Garden centers or farm supply store often sell all-purpose sprays that a home orchardist can use. Weeds need to be controlled around the base of the trees to improve tree growth. Trees can be severely damaged by rodents, rabbits, and deer. Contact your local extension office for information for both commercial growers and hobbyists. 

Pollination Guidelines

Generally, when planning your orchard, you want to put varieties together that bloom at the same time. For example, Early Bloom Varieties with other Early Bloom varieties. The flowers are open at the same time and allow bees to cross pollinate to produce fruit. Another option is to add in crab apple pollinizers to your orchard to pollinate the varieties. 

Early Bloom Variety Examples

(Some not all) Empire, Braeburn, Idared, Dandee Red, Liberty, Lodi

Mid-Season Bloom Variety Examples: 

(Some not all) Cortland, Zestar!, Gala, Granny Smith, Crispin

Mid to Late Bloom Variety Examples: 

Golden Delicious, Rosalee, Summerset, Evercrisp, Sweet Zinger, Ludacrisp, Fuji

Late Bloom Variety Examples: 

(Some not all): Honeycrisp, Roseland Red Honeycrisp, Royal Red Honeycrisp, Goldrush, Rome, Northern Spy, Jonastar Jonagold

Do Not Use as a Pollen Source: 

Jonastar Jonagold and Crispin

MAIA Membership Information

For more information concerning Midwest Apple Improvement Association (MAIA) membership, please visit http://MAIAapples.com

 

Tree Planting Guide

CLASSIFIED AS

ROOT-STOCK

HEIGHT OF MATURE TREE

STAKING

SOIL TYPE

SPACING FOR FARMERS

TREES PER ACRE

SPACING FOR HOMEOWNERS

FIREBLIGHT RESISTANT

Dwarf

B9

10-12 ft.

Permanent

All

3X12

1210

5X18

Yes

Dwarf

G.11

10-12 ft.

Permanent

All

3X12

1210

5X18

Somewhat

Dwarf

9/337

10-12 ft.

Permanent

All

3X12

1210

5X18

No

Dwarf

G.41

10-12 ft.

Permanent

All

3X12

1210

5X18

Yes

Dwarf

B10®

11-13 ft.

Permanent

All

4X14 to 3X12

1210

6X18

Yes

Dwarf

NIC 29

11-13 ft.

Permanent

All

4X14 to 3X12

1210

6X18

No

Semi-Dwarf

G.935

12-14 ft.

Permanent

All

5X15

580

8X18

Yes

Semi-Dwarf

M26

12-14 ft.

Permanent

Dry or Gravel

5X15

580

8X18

No

Semi-Dwarf

G.969

13-15 ft.

Permanent

All

6X16

454

10X20

Yes

Semi-Dwarf

G.30

13-15 ft.

Permanent

All

6X16

454

10X20

Yes

Semi-Dwarf

M7

14-16 ft.

No Stake

Deep Tap Root

8X18

302

12X25

No

Standard

MM111

16-18 ft.

No Stake

All

10X20

218

15X30

No

Standard

B118

16-18 ft.

No Stake

All

10X20

218

15X30

Somewhat

Pears

OHXF87

13-15 ft.

No Stake

All

6X16

454

12X24

No

Pears

OHXF97

16-18 ft.

No Stake

All

10X20

218

15X30

No

Peach/

Nectarine

Krymsk® 86

14-16 ft.

No Stake

All

Open Center: 14X20

Perpendicular “V”: 6X20

363/155

15X30

N/A

Cherry

Gisela 6

14-16 ft.

Suggested

All

6X16

454

12X25

N/A

Cherry

Mazzard

16-18 ft.

No Stake

All

15X20

145

15X30

N/A

Plum

Myrobalan 29C

16-18 ft.

No Stake

All

12X20

181

15X30

N/A

New York state Apple Maturity Guide

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